Salt, Silver and Sucre!

After an uneventful day in Uyuni scouting tour options and downing 1Lt bottles of beer in the sun filled village square I was more than ready for some local sights and sounds. In a 4WD packed with five Brazilians we headed off, bound for the attraction of the day; Salar de Uyuni. 

The worlds largest salt flat didn't disappoint, an unimaginable expanse of white... white and blue on the left and the same to the right but with a backdrop of mountains. Salar de Uyuni provides the perfect backdrop for a multitude of tricky perspective photos, limited only by your imagination and what you have in your backpack. We spent the afternoon crafting crazy pics, visiting an island filled with cacti hundreds of years old and watching the sun set beyond the white expanse; sprawling pink, orange and red across the evening sky.

Having been well warned about the extreme night time temperatures (and we all know how I love the cold!), after dinner we cocooned ourselves in layers of sleeping bags and blankets within our hostel made entirely of salt. 

As we set out the next morning I was excited; high altitude, dazzling coloured lagoons and pink flamingoes were on the itinerary. My excitement however, was thwarted like a kid whose ice cream scoop balanced precariously atop of a cone had just fallen to the ground when I approached the first lagoon and few dozen pink flamingoes only to discover that my camera had decided to bite the big one. Nine months in, ten days till I go home and it decides to die...now. I always do have issues with timing!

There was nothing to do but suck up the reality and take in every moment of the rest of the day, draw in every ounce of the majestic lagoons and statuesque flamingoes. 

As the day drew to a close I stood perched on a hill overlooking Lagoona Colorada as it sparkled fiery red and striking blue, framed by a white sodium and magnesium crusted shoreline and dotted with dozens of flamingoes. The sun sprawled its setting rays across the stoney path that led back to the dorms and lit up the large round clumps of brassy grass with a golden glow. I breathed in the crisp dusk air, letting the beauty of the day soak deep into my memory. 

After an evening of teaching my new Brazilian friends to play Shithead, then enduring an icy -12c night, I awoke feeling less than chipper... As the day and the seven hour return trip advanced, so did my stomach bug. By the time I arrived back in Uyuni I was in no condition to take another six hour bus journey to Potosi as planned. I holed up in a comfy hostel where Pamela the owner cooked my up her grandmothers home remedy and miraculously within hours I was on the mend!

The next morning I awoke hungry for a big breakfast and ready to get on the road to Potosi. Arriving mid afternoon with my new Spaniard amigo, we hit up the city's star attraction Casa Nacional de Moneda - the National Mint, a gorgeous colonial building dating back to the mid 1700's that was used to mint handmade silver coins called Potosis. The other tourism drawcard for Potosi, other than its pretty colonial architecture are the cooperative silver mines. 

Cerro Rico rises up to the East of the city; it is unknown how much silver has been extracted from the mountain but it is said that the Spanish could have built a bridge made entirely of silver and still had enough silver to carry across it! These days the silver has more or less dried up but there are still over forty operational mines on the mountain. 

After donning very attractive protective clothing, helmet and headlamp we set off for a tour of one of the mines. The word tour however in this case is a complete misnomer and for once the Lonely Planet actually got it right. The mine, the one I visited anyway was hell on earth, a dusty, windy, trash ridden mountain side, fumes of burning plastic filled the air and in the side of the mountain a small, carbon monoxide stained hole marked the entrance. The miners habitually drink themselves into a trance with 96% proof alcohol and chew on wads of coco leaves in order to tolerate the nightmarish conditions of working inside the mines.  Dynamite (which can be bought for about $3.50 a stick) is used to blast out new sections in search of silver and rubble is loaded into heavy metal trolleys, then lifted and pushed through the mine to the outside where it is dumped around the mountain side. After running through the mine corridors, jumping off to the side to avoid being trampled by rubbled filled trolleys and crouching in a "safe" archway while 25 sticks of dynamite were detonated I was ready to get the hell out of there. It was certainly an experience, and most definitely the most unsafe I have felt during my time in South America.

After safely arriving back to town and stuffing myself silly I boarded another bus set for Sucre. The sun set in the cloud smeared sky and three hours later I arrived in the whitewashed city, greeted by fireworks and a flurry of activity. Sucre is by far the diamond of Bolivia (in my opinion), it is filled with charming colonial architecture, warm winter sunshine and gentle cool breezes that waft through the air. As I sit on the terrace of my less than $6 a night private room which overlooks the city's terracotta rooftops I wonder whether I really do have to leave... Definitely a place in the world to look for me if I ever go missing!

With just a week of Bolivia left there are still a few adventures to be had, markets to be frequented, trails to be trudged and of course cerveza's to be guzzled... 

Me and the Brazilian crew

White and blue for as far as the eye can see...

Salt Hotel anyone!

Mmm Brazilians

I should sell this pic to Kraft for their next ad

Aaahhhhhh giant Brazilian...run

An island of Cacti

What a view!

Salt and more salt

Salar sunset

Cerro Rico

Miner for a day....no thanks

Just one of the many churches/cathedrals of Sucre

Sucre's plaza delights

Sucre...whitewash beauty

Mandarin anyone?

Tomato maybe?

Love South American markets

Feather duster...or 50?

Bolivian Beauty

South America is an entirely different world, one that I am very happy to be back in. After only a few days in Bolivia I have already lost track of the days and forgotten the comforts bestowed upon me during my time in the US.

Santa Cruz welcomed me with less than my ideal climate, after my last few days in summery Seattle I wasn't quite prepared for the contrast. Luckily though good coffee kept me toasty until company arrived and brought in tow the sunshine. Although quite lovely Santa Cruz doesn't hold much in the way of entertainment so we headed for Puerto Villareol to track down a boat that would take us North towards the small city Amazonian of Trinidad. Turns out that nature had other ideas though, we arrived in Puerto Villareol to find that the river was too low and there were no boats traveling until November. Unfazed with the situation at hand we simply made a new plan headed Westward bound to Cochebamba.

To my delight Cochabamba continued to supply days imbued with sunshine and blue skies, along with one of my favourite features of South America... markets. I love the markets of South America and Cochabamba has one of the biggest I have seen, spread out of block and blocks, streets and streets, full of everything and anything your heart desires. One of the things I love is that you can buy food in any quantity, just slice yourself off a slab of cheese, a knob of butter... one egg or a hundred, fresh fruit and vegetables, street food carts of delicious empanadas and juices stalls galore.

After hours of wandering and sampling we grabbed ourselves a couple of ice cold cervezas and a bright yellow park bench in the pretty town square where we did what the locals do, dwindle away the hours watching the world go by and enjoying the afternoon sunshine... living the dream!

With a wishlist of Bolivian destinations on the itinerary and unfortunately a limited time frame, the next morning we jumped on a $6  semi-cama bus for a 7 hour journey to La Paz. The Bolivian capital, perched at a dizzying 3660m brought a Sunday reminiscent of my beloved Sunday's in Argentina. The bustling city stops, schedules are put aside and quality time with friends and family are the priority of the day; the city closes down, the main street is blocked to traffic and stalls, jumping castles, ice cream vendors and music fill the streets, children play and a day of rest is enjoyed by all. Love Sundays in South America.....

The following day we set out early to pick up the gear we needed to tackle El Choro, a three day trek in the Yungas; a spectacular region Northwest of La Paz. After a false start where we ended up god knows where in relation to the trailhead, finally, at 1pm we set off to tackle 4859m Abra Chucura, the highest point of the trail and my new personal highest peak. Over the next couple of days and 57km the landscape went from barren and scree covered to tropical dry rainforest, wet lowlands and back again as we traversed thickly vegetated and steep uphill and downhill slopes. 

On day three, after eight hours on the trail we walked into the small village of Chairo and an hour later arrived in Coroico only to find that there was no ATM and cash poor, we would have to make our way back to La Paz that night, not part of the plan but all part of the "take it as it comes" traveling lifestyle. 

Some years ago an Inter-American Development Bank labelled the road between La Paz and Coroico "The Worlds Most Dangerous Road" due to the number of fatal accidents that occurred, on average 26 vehicles a year plunged over the edge. In 2007 $120M was loaned to Bolivia to build a new road linking the villages and region. Since the new road has been in operation the WMDR has been reserved for tourists and downhill mountain bike thrill seeking. 

Weary and hungry I reluctantly boarded the mini-van bound for La Paz.... when I say mini-van don't think plush suburban family transportation think crappy old beat up van... my seat was missing a leg and every time we made a right turn I almost head-butted the window. We were packed in with the 13 other sardines for the 3 hour journey, backpacks strapped to the roof; off we set, on the new road that links Coroico and La Paz. It was truly three hours of HELL, the worst, longest and probably most dangerous ride I have experienced in my time in South America. The road was sketchy and the driver a lunatic; I was tired, hungry, on my last nerve. 

Thankfully we safely made it back to La Paz to a much needed hot shower and comfy bed. After my little Coroico - La Paz journey I can honestly say that I have absolutely no desire to ride the Worlds Most Dangerous Road...on a bike, a car or any other vehicle!

With the clock ticking and my body not quite recovered and ready to tackle Huayna Potosi I left La Paz behind and made my way to Uyuni, home the worlds largest salt flat and to seek out that flock of pink flamingoes.

A lovely stroll into the Yungas

One of many rickerty suspension bridges

Sunrise @ campsite Buena Vista

57km of dense green mountains

Camping Buena Vista style

Devils slope

Three days of spectacular views

Pretty as a picture - Cochabamba

Chill out local style in the town square....don't mind if I do!

My NOLS experience in the spectacular Pasayten wilderness

It's my last day in the beautiful Pasayten wilderness backcountry of the Pacific Northwest of Washington. In less than 48 hours I will enjoy my first shower in over a week, a glass of wine (ok probably a bottle) and some fresh food, but as I sit in the ridge-top saddle between Slate Peak and Haystack Mountain and look out at the valley of thick evergreen pines I long for none of it....


My NOLS experience over the past week has been jam packed with swings and roundabouts. Almost everyday there were both aspects that I loved and really enjoyed and also experiences that I found difficult or loathed the thought of. Surprisingly as I reflect back now, those elements which I disliked at the time have become memories of fulfilment and accomplishment.


I entered into this week with some goals in mind and as I sit surrounded by wildflowers, mountains and stunning vistas I can confidently conclude my mission successful. My new skills include glissading, snow self arrest, scrambling on scree, river crossing, bear protection techniques, map reading and orientation, off trail bushwhacking and Leave No Trace principals. Although honestly I couldn't go so far as to use leaves and water to wipe my ass; babysteps...babysteps...


After a truly gourmet final backcountry dinner I sat with my fellow students and instructors  as the sun was swallowed by the American Alps and the sky evolved through a palette of orange and pink hues. The moon rose over a snow dotted peak as we reflected on our challenges and accomplishments, we each contemplated what being in the wilderness meant to us and what aspects we would take back to the front country with us.


Overall living in the wilderness; camping, cooking and lugging a 20kg pack over mountains, rocks, meadows and woods has been a challenging and fantastic experience. I walk away knowing that working as a Tour/Trip Leader is exactly what I want to do, a job that for me won't be a job at all but something that I want to wake up and do everyday.


As I prepare for another meal of lentils and ramen, a last night of freezing my tits off and the routine onslaught of evening mosquitoes I look forward to an early morning transit out of the Northern Cascades to where a hot shower and train back to Seattle await.


I spent the week leading up to my NOLS course as house-mate of Ryan from back in Antarctic days, enjoying his bachelor pad and some quality time with Jackson; pooch with attitude, his big screen projector TV and the delish Seattle cafe scene. I squeezed in a 10 mile hike, much longed for Indian food, a trip to the Pike St Market, an expensive visit to REI, caffeine overload at the original Starbucks, quality time and giant sized popcorn at the big screen (x2), (the only thing missing was Phil) and an hour long massage indulgence.


The six week US stint of my adventure come to an end in a few days but here is the kicker....South America Round 2 is next!! I had been debating over the past few weeks what I would do with the last month of my amazing journey, tossing around ideas and options but unable to make a decision. One of the things I really wanted to see while in South America was a flock of pink flamingos; that box has been left unticked so I'm off on a jet plane to Bolivia to seek them out.... My last month will be spent immersed in the Bolivian culture accompanied by just a little Dutch influence...

One heavy ass pack on top of a big ass mountain!

Pine tree graveyard

Dawn beauty

Sharing first rays with the wildlife

A valley of pine....stunning

From the scree and snow to the valley and lake below

Beautiful lake...mosquito hell

Nature in brilliant simplicity and oh so beautiful

Me as leader of the day and my crew

Old man of the mountain

Worth the hike up the mountain

Pasayten sunset...summer snow and all

Trip leaders and new friends

NOLS TLS810 Crew

Sneaky Demi...

Last evening lakeside

Colourful Colorado

Today I finally got out into the great American outdoors and it doesn't get much better than amongst the 14ers in Colorado.


After seven days of living and breathing Wilderness Medicine and Backcountry Rescue, I had been trained and officially certified, the pressure was off and I was happy to be back out in the world.


I spent just over a week in Buena Vista, Colorado, a postcard town on the banks of the Arkansas River and the US home of white water river rafting. I however, did nothing but sit in classes, participate in drills, review and read notes and textbooks for hours, eat and sleep. That was literally my schedule for the entire seven days of the course... ok I lie, I did take a power-break to watch Entourage S8E1!


After successfully passing the course my classmates and I headed to Eddyline, the local brewery for a well earned pint before we all left the small town known as BV behind. Although I really didn't see any of the area by the time the course and the week was over I was quite happy to be moving on, not that far though, about 40 miles down the US-24, my next stop was another picture perfect Colorado town, Leadville.


When I decided to come to Colorado for the WRF course I knew the dates would be a tight fit with my NOLS commitments in Washington State, but what a shame it would be not to see any of this famously spectacular area. 


I could have not been more right, this morning I took in the Native Lake Hike, a 13km trail in the Mount Massive National Forest and it was striking to say the least. Summer wildflowers in every colour framed the trail and snow spotted mountains rose up on all sides, I was pleased that my biggest fear wasn't realised...being confronted with a big Black Bear or Mountain Lion!


Unfortunately my time in Colorado will come to an end all too soon but I have added the 54 Colorado 14ers (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Colorado_fourteeners) to my to do list sometime in the future, I think I will need an entire summer (or two) for that!

Early morning picture perfect Leadville

A couple of the Colorado 14ers

Bristlecone Pines and summer wildflowers

Colorado Snow Caps

My first American outdoors experience

Native Lake

Bee-utiful

Jackrabbit!

Home of the endangered Greenback Cutthroat Trout